The timing marks are on the Zero mark down on the oil pump. Its seems when it was timed before the distributor was almost all the way turned in towards the firewall before it would read time at -5BTDC. But with the new way the timing marks are, there seems to be two legitimate options of how to put the distributor in as opposed to one that was at 12 o'clock and one that would go in way off if that makes sense, but like I said I don't want to run it until I get some more feedback?

>>>*Note that the top gear tooth with the timing mark will always center on the side plate, never between. That is one of the fastest ways I know to tell if she is off at a glance...

*My dialup hates pictures, I can't get them open....*EB

EB can't get pictures, Anyone else? I wanna say it was right before, but then what is the deal.

When we took the old head off we had the motor at 0TDC, and and made note of the cam position, so when we put the new cam into the new head, we positioned it exactly as the old cam, BEFORE we installed the head, so I'm 99.9% sure we did not bend any valves.

<a href="" class="post-image" style="height:... [url=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us]cam position[/url]

okay this may sound dumb, but I'm starting to question my brain.

On the oil pump if looking at it from left to right (from the front looking down) there are two large lines on the left, and then the number 5 and the number 0. The number 5 and 0 have two small marks in front of them, one small mark each, so what are the two large marks on the left suppossed to correspond to?? Like so:

l l 50 That was the best crude rep I could do.
l l l l

Theres no way that the marks to the left are supposed to correspond with the 5 and the 0 is there?

Toyrunner: That was the position it was at before the change, and I changed it back tonight, now i'm wondering about the marks on the oil pump

>>>*K...That pic I got open and while I can't see the lower mark it looks OK to me.

Set the engine on the zero at the bottom when setting up the chain...*EB

So put on notch on the pully right in front of the 0? thats what I did/have been doing. What are the two large lines/marks to the left of the 5 and 0 on the oil pump? What do they correspond to? Because if I'm supposed to be right in front of the 0 on the crank, then I had it right and the timing is NOT the problem, and in that case, I have no idea what the problem is? Somthing isn't explaining how I get no power from the camshaft. Darn

the other thing that I can think of to check is to make sure your valve lash is not to tight.
that is the valves not closing all the way.

that timeing mark looks ok.

the other thing that I have heard of is the crank pully slipping on the dampener.
that is the rubber part slips so the crank key pin is not in the correct relation ship to the timing mark.
so you can never get the timing set.

how are you doing top dead center?
are both intake and exhaust rocker arms loose? they should be on TDC.
is the piston all the way to the top also.
use a soda straw through the spark plug hole to feel for the piston.

just some more thoughts for you.

let us know what you finaly figure out!!!

Yes I understand what you're saying. It doesn't matter what or where the crank pully is or says as long as its really at TDC. Tonight after work my friend and I are gonna try and re-time it agian, and I'm going to install a two way thermostat. As far as valve lash, I will check that too.

I was just hoping that the two large timing marks on the oil pump corresponded to the 5 and 0 beside them, that woulda made me laugh, and explained some things.

<a href="" class="post-image" style="height:...</a>]timing mark position on crank

The previous picture I posted is where the cam mark should be.
This picture is where the crank should be at when setting the cam timing.
The distributor should be pointing at #1 and the clamp bolt should be in the middle of the adjustment. if it isn't, you are a tooth off. Also, are you 'jumping" the test port when setting the timing?