Another, less invasive fuel delivery test is to remove the return line at the tank, put the end in a graduated container, and apply power to the fuel pump test terminal for a measured length of time, say 10sec, and measure the quantity delivered. Assume 5mpg at full throttle, the minimum delivered quantity would be .2gal / 6, or .033333gal, which is a little over half a cup liquid measure. This only measures volume, not pressure, but if you get flow at all, you are over 36-38psi since it got past the fuel pressure regulator, which is a pressure test of a sort, unless the fpr is fried, in which case, a deadhead pressure test (plumbing pressure gauge in the end of the return line) will test that.

After this test, pull the spark plugs to look for a leaking injector.

Frank,

is this gauge something that I could leave there all the time?

Not much to the fitting. If you want to borrow one, let me know.

Yes, you could leave the gauge, but you'd want to make certain the tee was installed so there are no fuel leaks. The fuel line is over the passenger side exhaust manifold and any leak could be bad news.

I see that MarkG was kind enough to offer a loan of his adapter - I'd take him up on the offer if all other troubleshooting turns up nothing..... unless you want a permanent fuel pressure gauge.

Frank

What does it look like, I'd like to get one of my own. Thanks

It's a specialized tee. It has one side that accepts the end of the high pressure fuel line that goes in to the fuel rail, one side that mimics the end of the high pressure line and goes into the fuel rail in place of it, and one that accepts a pressure gauge. It bolts into the fuel rail with longer versions of the same bolts that hold the high pressure line in place, and seals with the same kind of orings.

Sounds great, where do I buy one? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> can I use a gauge like this one?
http://www.drillspot.com/products/70018/Generic_5WZ21_Pressure_Gauge

I love knowing what is going on everywhere, I'd love to have this setup permanent.

I guess this would be a better choice for a gauge
http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto%20Meter/105/2177/10002/-1?CT=999

Dangerous business. That gauge will work, but it has no safety feature to prevent catastrophic high pressure fuel leak in the event of failure, like a gauge isolator. I'd prefer a gauge with a 60psi range for better accuracy. An electric gauge would also be safer, and somewhat more leakproof. I would not use a mechanical gauge in the passenger compartment without an isolator unless you are aching to be a crispy critter.

Remember, a fuel leak at 36psi causes much more rapid vaporization of the fuel than a leak at lower pressures, and pushes more fuel out of the leak per unit time, and it's fuel vapor that burns, not liquid fuel. And an engine compartment or passenger compartment both have lots of ignition sources.

Well the 2nd new distributor came in the mail today and it looks like the cut out is gone, I did have a bad new distributor (Hi Test reman) New new one is Cardone Select.

I hope I'm done with this chapter.