1. Are there any tips, tricks or particular tools required to removing the cam and crank seals without scratching the cam/crank nose?

(I will be applying oil to inner surface of new seal and sealant to outer surface)

2. Is sealant required when installing the new water pump?

3. Any tricks to getting and keeping the engine at TDC while putting on the timing belt?

4. Could this buildup behind the waterpump be caused by the leaking rad hose clamps?
drivers side

The corrosion on the aluminum outlet is normal - just clean it up with a scotchbrite pad.

[color:"blue"] Will do.[/color]




If you're careful, you might be able to grab the seal with one of those offset combination phillips/flat screwdrivers like this:

web page

Sometimes, I just use a straight screwdriver and pry the seal out.

[color:"blue"] Thanks for this info! I also asked my neighbour if he happened to have a seal puller and he actually has one that looks like a double-sided hook that might help. It's similar to the twisted screwdriver but much narrower with a coating on the removal surfaces.[/color]




You can smear a little RTV on the outer surface, but don't use oil on the inner surface..... use wheel bearing grease instead on the cam journal and the seal lip. It'll lubricate better/longer until the oil pressure is up on restart. It's also a good practice to pack the rear cavity of the seal with the same bearing grease to help contain the spring on installation.

[color:"blue"] Excellent advice as usual! I would have never thought to use grease, let alone filling the seals spring cavity with grease to keep the spring in place during installation. I have some Permatex "The Right Stuff" that I'll use for the outer seal surfaces and valve cover corners, etc.[/color]




On your engine, it would be wise. First, run a tap into all of the water pump block holes, then clean the flanges on the front of the block really well. Scrape that area near the opening that's so rusty and flaking so it doesn't cause the pump to seal badly. That area may need some careful attention to make sure you get a good seal. The factory gaskets are good, but I still use an anerobic sealant on both sides of the gasket..... RTV should also work..... smear it all over the gasket with your fingers.

[color:"blue"] Just looked up anerobic sealant, "Suggested Applications: Water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans, transmission case covers, transaxle casings, o-ring replacement". Guess what I'll be using there... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />[/color]




No tricks needed to get it to stay there - it will. Install the crankshaft sprocket with a light smear of anti-seize, remove the spark plugs, install the old crank bolt and turn the engine over with a ratchet/socket until the mark on the sprocket is aligned with the mark on the oil pump. Put the belt in place on the crank sprocket, align the driver side cam sprocket first, then the passenger side (with the tensioner bolt and spring loose). Install the tensioner spring, snug the tensioner a little and rotate the engine a few times to make sure the marks are all aligned on the crank and cam sprockets, then torque the tensioner to final value.
[color:"blue"] Besides gouging the cam/crank seal mating surfaces, this is (I mean was <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" /> )the most challenging aspect of this whole thing. When they say a picture is worth a thousand words, what about the 20 words that paints a picture worth a thousand words... now that's what I call interest.[/color]




Maybe, maybe not - just clean it up as best you can and make sure the pump flanges sit flat without rocking. I have had to use a grinder in that area on a couple of blocks. The factory didn't do a real good job of machining some of them.

[color:"blue"] Yeah, I'll clean those areas up with some gentle scraping and scotch brite pads and see how much more they'll need. Hopefully I can stay away from the grinder... I can get a little over-zealous at times, haha.[/color]


Before you try to start the engine, check the distributor clocking.

[color:"blue"] Will do.[/color]


Frank

I pull small seals with this:
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=365

I have also drilled the outer metal ring of the seal and screwed in a sheet metal screw then pulled on that with vice grips.

I use a pneumatic tool w/ either scotch-brite pads or a finger disc to clean surfaces. It may take a little longer but there is a lot less danger of removing too much surface area. I don't recommend RTV on any gasket in the cooling loop; RTV tends to come off & get in the cooling water. I use weatherstrip adhesive on water pump gaskets.

I've done this job a few times on both the 3.0 and the 3.5. I would say there are more than one way to skin a cat. That being said, get the mating sufaces as clean as you can. I like to use a razor blade scraper to get as much as I can off before resorting to any powered devices. On my last job I was able to get the block really clean without any power tool use. The goal being not to distort the mounting surface.

[color:"blue"] To clean and not distort is the goal, check!.[/color]

I like to Use RTV as well but in a very minimal ammout to reduce the amount that will squeeze out and get into the coolant. Pay close attention to the condition of the water pipe that connects to the back of the housing. If its corroded you should replace it.

[color:"blue"] This water pipe is corroded on mine, but it seems to only be surface rust. I'll check it out more closely and see how badly corroded it is and if it's too far gone I'll definitely replace it if it's still available... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> .[/color]