The corrosion on the aluminum outlet is normal - just clean it up with a scotchbrite pad.

[color:"blue"] Will do.[/color]




If you're careful, you might be able to grab the seal with one of those offset combination phillips/flat screwdrivers like this:

web page

Sometimes, I just use a straight screwdriver and pry the seal out.

[color:"blue"] Thanks for this info! I also asked my neighbour if he happened to have a seal puller and he actually has one that looks like a double-sided hook that might help. It's similar to the twisted screwdriver but much narrower with a coating on the removal surfaces.[/color]




You can smear a little RTV on the outer surface, but don't use oil on the inner surface..... use wheel bearing grease instead on the cam journal and the seal lip. It'll lubricate better/longer until the oil pressure is up on restart. It's also a good practice to pack the rear cavity of the seal with the same bearing grease to help contain the spring on installation.

[color:"blue"] Excellent advice as usual! I would have never thought to use grease, let alone filling the seals spring cavity with grease to keep the spring in place during installation. I have some Permatex "The Right Stuff" that I'll use for the outer seal surfaces and valve cover corners, etc.[/color]




On your engine, it would be wise. First, run a tap into all of the water pump block holes, then clean the flanges on the front of the block really well. Scrape that area near the opening that's so rusty and flaking so it doesn't cause the pump to seal badly. That area may need some careful attention to make sure you get a good seal. The factory gaskets are good, but I still use an anerobic sealant on both sides of the gasket..... RTV should also work..... smear it all over the gasket with your fingers.

[color:"blue"] Just looked up anerobic sealant, "Suggested Applications: Water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans, transmission case covers, transaxle casings, o-ring replacement". Guess what I'll be using there... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />[/color]




No tricks needed to get it to stay there - it will. Install the crankshaft sprocket with a light smear of anti-seize, remove the spark plugs, install the old crank bolt and turn the engine over with a ratchet/socket until the mark on the sprocket is aligned with the mark on the oil pump. Put the belt in place on the crank sprocket, align the driver side cam sprocket first, then the passenger side (with the tensioner bolt and spring loose). Install the tensioner spring, snug the tensioner a little and rotate the engine a few times to make sure the marks are all aligned on the crank and cam sprockets, then torque the tensioner to final value.
[color:"blue"] Besides gouging the cam/crank seal mating surfaces, this is (I mean was <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" /> )the most challenging aspect of this whole thing. When they say a picture is worth a thousand words, what about the 20 words that paints a picture worth a thousand words... now that's what I call interest.[/color]




Maybe, maybe not - just clean it up as best you can and make sure the pump flanges sit flat without rocking. I have had to use a grinder in that area on a couple of blocks. The factory didn't do a real good job of machining some of them.

[color:"blue"] Yeah, I'll clean those areas up with some gentle scraping and scotch brite pads and see how much more they'll need. Hopefully I can stay away from the grinder... I can get a little over-zealous at times, haha.[/color]


Before you try to start the engine, check the distributor clocking.

[color:"blue"] Will do.[/color]


Frank