Permatex makes an RTV that formulated for water pump installations thats what I use. I've never conducted an experiment to see how antifreeze affects it's properties, but its hard to believe that if RTV will seal petroleum based oil that the ethyl glycol in the antifreeze would so easily break it down. My definition of minimal is just enough to coat the gasket surfaces without squeezing out all over the place.



So is permatex wrong to market this product for this purpose?

Nah.... you can market whatever you like. Some people almost starved to death on Herbalife & you can still get the "Sham-Wow"(as seen on TV).I've even seen Billy Mays pushing a few products from beyond the grave! Use what ever you like. The guy ask for an opinion & I gave one based on past experience & input from other users.I guess because I have an opinion that differs & am not from the west coast ,I must be wrong.I will try to bow out gracefully( for a change) & leave this to the opinions that are main stream & really seem to matter. Sorry for hi-jacking your thread & venting ,fhuss. Best of luck with your repairs.I wish you many miles & happy trails. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

If that's what you call a graceful bow out...well I'd hate to see you really go off.

Nothing wrong with stating your opinion. Sorry you got your feelings hurt. Opinions probably differ about a lot of things here. That's why we have an open forum here. I would honestly like to discuss the issue, so if RTV is really no good in this application I can take the info and use something else for the job next time. I just don't see what Billy Mays or East vs. West coast (or any other part of your rant) has anything to do with it. Maybe you have some other issues with the members best left to PM's. If "window trim adhesive" is the hot ticket for sealing up a water pump I just want a little more info than just taking some guy on the Internets word for it. Just like you or anyone else is free to question my advice. Debate is a good thing.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

It's "weatherstrip adhesive", and it's good stuff. I use it on the front and rear seal strips under the intake mani on SBC's, a known problem location, and it works like gangbusters.

The problem with rtv and antifreeze is that it won't stick to a surface wetted with the rtv. It's fine after it dries, unless you gob it on so it gets pooched out of the gasket clamp area into passages. That stuff should never be put on in a bead with a gasket, but put on with a finger to smear it into a thin layer. If you have to close a large gap, do the mechanical repair to eliminate the gap, then use the rtv.

There are places to use rtv, places to use weatherstrip adhesive, and places to use gasket adhesive. Personally, I'd use rtv on the 3.0 water pump, since the front and rear halves come from different places, are made of differing materials, and mount to a potentially uneven surface.

And Justice, you came over as kind of rude and smartass, whether you meant it that way or not. I recognized it because that mode comes natural to me, too, you see...

One last tip. The dside cam sprocket wants to stay on the timing mark because the cam is between lobes. The pside is on the point of a lobe, and wants to jump off, so be gentle...

My bad..<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> I'll try to be nicer.

FWIW given the time, I like to let it dry (the RTV) for 24 hours before putting coolant back in and running the engine. Good info on the weather strip adhesive.

Hey all.. Life been crazy over here for me ..lol... Hope your all doing good .. Do what you will in "your" motors ...

But theres no place any where for 3M weather strip on a motor ...Its "glue" has no sealing propertys gets realy hard and cant take the heat of a motor ... It will shrink with heat over time ...

Try Permatex High Tack...Adhesive Sealer ...Part 98H ..Item 80062.. (Real old can numbers maybe old).. It will 'give' more and not 'cook' so hard and shrink and leak ... Leave the can open for a few weeks it will thicken up ..I keep two cans around one keep closed "really thin goo"..The other never really had the top closed on tight its real heavy goo ..

LOL.. If you can find a 20 year old can look in it ..The old stuff really seals good and never gets hard ..You know it stinks can give you a buzz if you smell it can and will kill your brain .. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />..Goood stuff..

It can be called aircraft sealer..

I dont use 3M weatherstrip glue ...But to glue V8 Chevy valve cover gaskets on to the covers

I use RTV on a water pump . <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />. I try to let all my work dry as long as I can be for I start any thing ... ..

3M's to hard to get off ...??????????...right ..??.. Every time "I" find it has been used ..

Im not trying to uppset anyone ... I seem too do that alot around here so do what works for you... My testing says no on 3M ...

David

Hazardous Toys inc

First off...

Thanks for the input ALL!!!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

There's no way I would have been able to keep this truck 10 years without the generous support of the members here.

Secondly... I know we all have differing opinions and experience with what works for our particular situations(some of us, like me, have very little, hence the request) but I'm sure there is no ill will intended by anyone posting responses here, even if it sounds like it, RIGHT?!?!?! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />

My purpose for posting these questions was twofold. I actually could use the help and, the responses can potentially give other novices like myself a hand if they don't feel comfortable posting questions for whatever reason.

Lastly...
Thanks fasteddy!!...

Neither. I'm referring to gm/3m weatherstrip adhesive, primary use is to adhere rubber weatherstripping to doors/hoods/trunklids/etc. It was widely used to keep the rubber sealer strips from pinching out as the manifold was torqued down. It's not a sealer, just a stickum...

That's what I've always used with coolant gaskets and never had a problem.

Ok, I have the crank/cam seals replaced using bearing grease inside and packed into the spring cavity.
Lightly coated some "the right stuff" rtv on the outer lip of each of the seals.
Water pump has been installed using the same rtv lightly smeared on both sides of the supplied gasket as well on both sides of the coolant return neck metal gasket, hope that's fine.

I've decided to go ahead with Service Part 2. and take off the intake plenum and manifold while I've got the extra manoeuvering room with everything else removed anyways as well as to give all applied sealant, etc to set for good measure... I'm sure it'll be more than enough time with my current pace, haha.

[color:"blue"] Ok, from what I remember, a light coat of rtv on the vc gaskets and a filler ammount in the sharp trouble corners is recommended, and this stuff below is for coolant gaskets, etc, correct?!?! [/color]

Seems as if the rebuilder used the rtv in the troubled corners but both valve covers leak terribly.
I don't want to have to deal with this issue for a while as it's making a mess of the engine. Add in the coolant leaks and it's the dog's breakfast in there... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

I've got the copper gasket spray for the plenum gasket and I've also got the manifold gaskets as well which I'll be replacing because I can see the paper gaskets installed with the rebuild seem to be weeping a little with evidence of the same coolant crystalization on/around and between them.



That's what I've always used with coolant gaskets and never had a problem.