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 Re: Crank/Cam seals and Timing Belt/Water Pump questions... Service Part 1.
[Re: fhuzz]
#997301
05/19/10 10:13 PM
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 683
OP
Rock Warrior
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...and the intake plenum does not want to BUDGE... I've removed 3 short bolts, 2 long bolts and 2 side nuts and it's like it's cemented on there... I'm afraid I'm gonna mess this thing up... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> something for me to deal with tomorrow...
'89 Monty LWB auto, 3rd row seating, 95SR rear + coils, genII UCA's and calipers/rotors, dual bouncies.
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Re: Crank/Cam seals and Timing Belt/Water Pump questions... Service Part 1.
[Re: fhuzz]
#997302
05/19/10 10:40 PM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
Web Wheeler
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If you're referring to the upper intake, there's a brace on the front with 1 or 2 bolts and a brace at the rear with 1 or 2 bolts. After you get all the bolts out, smack it with a rubber hammer.
You'll probably need to smack the lower intake as well.
Frank
'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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Re: Crank/Cam seals and Timing Belt/Water Pump questions... Service Part 1.
[Re: fhuzz]
#997303
05/19/10 10:45 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 927
Rock Warrior
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...and the intake plenum does not want to BUDGE... I've removed 3 short bolts, 2 long bolts and 2 side nuts and it's like it's cemented on there... I'm afraid I'm gonna mess this thing up... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> something for me to deal with tomorrow... There should be *4* short bolts, 2 long ones, and 2 nuts/washers. You might have missed one of the short ones hiding back behind the intake plenum neck where the throttle body mounts onto? It should not be hard to get the plenum loose, although getting that firewall-side ear out from under the heater hose has always caused me to use some words Momma would have washed my mouth out for if she'd heard... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> and don't get me started on the idiocy of the rear plenum bracket bolts... Eric W.
'89 Dodge Raider -- 3.0L V6, MT, SWB
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Re: Crank/Cam seals and Timing Belt/Water Pump questions... Service Part 1.
[Re: fhuzz]
#997304
05/19/10 11:19 PM
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,269
Roll Me Over
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Here's my two cents on the second part. Try a few gentle taps with a rubber mallet on the plenumn, double and triple check to be sure you got all the bolts first. If I remember right there's one that's kind of hidden. The gasket between the upper and lower plenumn should be the metal type. while the lower intake is a thicker metallic coated type. If you have paper in there thats probably a clue that the rebuilder didnt use the best quality gasket set. Felpro makes decent gaskets and that's what I used doing my last job of pulling the intake to do the VLA's. But I have to say that their valve cover gaskets for this engine suck. they are a bit ill fitting and are missing the little tabs on the sides that help retain the gasket in the valve cover. They seem to be made of good quality material but the fitment with these is a PITA. I went ahead and used them because that was what I had on hand already. If I did it over I would use OEM Valve cover gaskets or try another brand of aftermarket. FELPRO is usually on the shelf at most sstores for this engine so it makes it tough to go OEM if your on a budget. I used permatex high tack (spray on) on the Valcover surface, wiped off the excess, then mounted the gaskets to the valve cover. I set the Vcovers on a flat suface with a little weight on top to allow the sealant to tack up for a while and then installed the covers with the dabs of RTV in the corners as the FSM specifies. The high tack sealant helps keep the gasket from slipping out of place. I like to torque the VC bolts to factory spec as well that way Im sure that I didnt over or under tighten. HTH <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />
99 Gen 2.5, fixing blown head gasket
89 SWB- 33's, ARB Front locker, SR rear locker/axle, SR F brakes, winch, WST Offroad Armor all Around, 2.85 Aussie T-case Gears (SOLD)
Sold: (2) 95 SR's, 86 SWB, 90LWB, 91 LWB
-Can Change a timing belt in my sleep..
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Re: Crank/Cam seals and Timing Belt/Water Pump questions... Service Part 1.
[Re: 89IsMine]
#997305
05/19/10 11:28 PM
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 683
OP
Rock Warrior
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From the volume of help and responses, it would appear that the steps involved in doing the intake and timimg belt work seem to have been permanently etched into the memory of those of us fortunate enough to have the time and opportunity to do it. 89LS, the fact that you remember there are 4 short bolts is impressive to say the least <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I'll check on that tomorrow and make sure to bring the rubber mallet into the equation.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> ...and the intake plenum does not want to BUDGE... I've removed 3 short bolts, 2 long bolts and 2 side nuts and it's like it's cemented on there... I'm afraid I'm gonna mess this thing up... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> something for me to deal with tomorrow... There should be *4* short bolts, 2 long ones, and 2 nuts/washers. You might have missed one of the short ones hiding back behind the intake plenum neck where the throttle body mounts onto? It should not be hard to get the plenum loose, although getting that firewall-side ear out from under the heater hose has always caused me to use some words Momma would have washed my mouth out for if she'd heard... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> and don't get me started on the idiocy of the rear plenum bracket bolts... Eric W.
'89 Monty LWB auto, 3rd row seating, 95SR rear + coils, genII UCA's and calipers/rotors, dual bouncies.
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Re: Crank/Cam seals and Timing Belt/Water Pump questions... Service Part 1.
[Re: justice]
#997306
05/19/10 11:34 PM
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 683
OP
Rock Warrior
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Thanks Justice, good call and I didn't think of it re: the OE VC gaskets... I will be going OE with them and take the spray on adhesive advice as well... leaky Valve covers are so last year... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I"ve got OE Upper and lower intake gaskets, but have left over VC gaskets that might have been a future issue... Here's my two cents on the second part. Try a few gentle taps with a rubber mallet on the plenumn, double and triple check to be sure you got all the bolts first. If I remember right there's one that's kind of hidden. The gasket between the upper and lower plenumn should be the metal type. while the lower intake is a thicker metallic coated type. If you have paper in there thats probably a clue that the rebuilder didnt use the best quality gasket set. Felpro makes decent gaskets and that's what I used doing my last job of pulling the intake to do the VLA's. But I have to say that their valve cover gaskets for this engine suck. they are a bit ill fitting and are missing the little tabs on the sides that help retain the gasket in the valve cover. They seem to be made of good quality material but the fitment with these is a PITA. I went ahead and used them because that was what I had on hand already. If I did it over I would use OEM Valve cover gaskets or try another brand of aftermarket. FELPRO is usually on the shelf at most sstores for this engine so it makes it tough to go OEM if your on a budget. I used permatex high tack (spray on) on the Valcover surface, wiped off the excess, then mounted the gaskets to the valve cover. I set the Vcovers on a flat suface with a little weight on top to allow the sealant to tack up for a while and then installed the covers with the dabs of RTV in the corners as the FSM specifies. The high tack sealant helps keep the gasket from slipping out of place. I like to torque the VC bolts to factory spec as well that way Im sure that I didnt over or under tighten. HTH <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />
'89 Monty LWB auto, 3rd row seating, 95SR rear + coils, genII UCA's and calipers/rotors, dual bouncies.
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Re: Crank/Cam seals and Timing Belt/Water Pump questions... Service Part 1.
[Re: fhuzz]
#997307
05/19/10 11:48 PM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
Web Wheeler
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You should not need any adhesive with the factory valve cover gaskets.
Frank
'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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Re: Crank/Cam seals and Timing Belt/Water Pump questions... Service Part 1.
[Re: fhuzz]
#997308
05/20/10 01:47 AM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 927
Rock Warrior
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89LS, the fact that you remember there are 4 short bolts is impressive to say the least <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I'll check on that tomorrow and make sure to bring the rubber mallet into the equation.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Not so impressive -- I just pulled mine to fix what I thought was a leaking rear cam plug, so the memory is fresh <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Turned out to be a pinched D/S valve cover gasket but I replaced the cam plug as well. I'd like just 5 minutes alone in a room with the engineer that thought mounting the rear plenum stay the way they did was a good idea <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" /> I have small hands, but they are still all beat to pieces after more time than I care to recount spent lying on top of the engine trying to thread those bolts back in with my fingers going numb... Eric W.
'89 Dodge Raider -- 3.0L V6, MT, SWB
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Re: Crank/Cam seals and Timing Belt/Water Pump questions... Service Part 1.
[Re: 89IsMine]
#997309
05/20/10 02:17 AM
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 683
OP
Rock Warrior
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You should not need any adhesive with the factory valve cover gaskets. [color:"blue"]
noted! [/color]
Frank Not so impressive -- I just pulled mine to fix what I thought was a leaking rear cam plug, so the memory is fresh <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Turned out to be a pinched D/S valve cover gasket but I replaced the cam plug as well. I'd like just 5 minutes alone in a room with the engineer that thought mounting the rear plenum stay the way they did was a good idea <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" /> I have small hands, but they are still all beat to pieces after more time than I care to recount spent lying on top of the engine trying to thread those bolts back in with my fingers going numb... [color:"blue"] I apologize, but... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> .
The thing is, those engineers must have done something right, these trucks are still going strong after 20 years...
I've been using some .5 mil (I think) blue rubber gloves that help keep my knuckles somewhat intact, so far.
I still feel your pain, although its mostly in my lower back <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> [/color] Eric W.
'89 Monty LWB auto, 3rd row seating, 95SR rear + coils, genII UCA's and calipers/rotors, dual bouncies.
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Re: Crank/Cam seals and Timing Belt/Water Pump questions... Service Part 1.
[Re: fhuzz]
#997310
05/27/10 04:15 AM
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 989
Rock Warrior
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I hope you got the truck going fhuzz ..? .. Was and have been looking at all the V6 motor stuff I can find ...Realy light on my V6 info .. Lots of good info on the forum.. But Whats with the 'rust' on the V6 blocks ..And how do you spell it 'electrallasest' (??SP) on the aluminum parts on the V6 motors cooling system ..Was thinking that the rust on my water pump was just my motor ...( My V6 Raider is a really cream puff ..High miles 188K ... But lots of love in its life and the paper work to back it up ..Really lucky $600 find for me .. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.. ) ... So was thinking it was just 'my' Monty ... But all the pic's "I" see seem to be rusty at the pump ... ???????? I would think as rusty as my motor was... I had to put RTV to fill the bloody rust holes in the block ..??? ..Why do the V6 motor blocks rust ..??... David Hazardous Toys inc
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