Robert, give up on the turbo carb. The factory mech fuel pump (with the non-adjustable internal pressure regulator) puts out less pressure than the boost you are talking about, so the fuel will never get to the carb. This is not going to work. At best, it won't run worth a camn, and at worst, it will detonate into junk.

Well, if you dont want to go with the crappy boring single carb. Get a factory twin downdraft from australia.:)

Check out sigma-galant.com It's a aussie site that has to do with all teh early mitsu cars n what not. They got the twin downdraft carbs, hell fo a upgrade from a single, adn twin sidedraft manifolds n what not pop up quite often. They even had a Factory suck through carb setup on teh turbo sigma. Might be worth checking out if you dont want the run of the mill single carb.

I did a search too but cant find anything under $400 for a 32/36. Grrr

web page

web page

Worth a look...

This MD612713 is good for an 89 2.6 right?

I got the replacement used Mikuni today, and got it installed. However, now it has a high idle (2000 rpms), and I have to try and figure out what's wrong. I'm pretty sure I have all the rubber lines and caps in the right place (the fuel lines and water line are obvious). I'm hoping it's something simple as having some lines crossed, as opposed to the replacement carb malfunctioning. It has a 30-day warranty, so I need to figure it out in the next couple of weeks. But when it finally started (carb was dry), it seemed to run better than before, so I'm anxious to see what it drives like with working secondaries!

Item of note. On the stock carb, on the side that faces the valve cover, there's a small fitting at the base of the carb that angles up at 90-degrees, and has a rubber cap. There's another fitting next to it, that's angled slightly upwards, that was uncapped. When I installed the replacement carb, I capped this second fitting, that was the only difference I remember doing between the stock carb and replacement carb. In an attempt to get the idle down, I removed this rubber cap, and the rpms shot up to almost 3000 rpms, and wouldn't go back down. So tomorrow I'm going to put the cap back on, cross my fingers, and hope for the best...

Doesn't one of those go to the depression chamber, the silver flying saucer on the valve cover side of the carb? Uses about a 2" length of rubber vac hose.

Man, with as much trouble as I'm having with a simple carb swap, I'm definitely thinking slapping a turbo on top of it is just asking for trouble. I should've taken the time to label all those frickin' hoses somehow, but decided to take lots of digital pics, in the hope that those would be better.

I've looked at the pics again, this time on my laptop screen, and will check the routing of the hoses again tomorrow. If I'm certain that the hoses are correct, and it still won't idle below 3000 rpms, then by process of elimination I'm going to assume there's something mechanically wrong with the replacement carb, and send it back. I don't have the patience to screw around with this thing, so if checking and rechecking the hose connections doesn't fix it, the carb's going back...

I did my turbo swap in part to avoid doing the Mikuni.

Someone dig up Don's link for the vacuum lines...

Lots and lots of those hoses have to do with egr. try blocking off the egr and see if the idle improves.

Also, the base idle may just be set too high. NOTE WELL, there is one idle screw you don't touch...