22re Engine stalls when:
-underload
-heater fan turned on
-after 10-15km

Parts changed (but no help):
-spark plugs
-spark plug wires
-distributor cap & rotor
-Fuel Filter changed last November

Code Pulled:
-12 (No NE signal is input to the ECM for 2 secs.
or more after STA turns ON.
ò Open or short in NE circuit
ò Distributor
ò Open or short in STA circuit
ò ECM)

(what's NE stand for?)

Then pulled EFI fuse to reset, drive, stall, check code again:
-43 (Starter signal (STA) is not input to ECM
even once until engine reaches 800 rpm or
more when cranking.
ò Open or short in starter signal
circuit
ò Open or short in IG SW or
main relay circuit
ò ECM)

Sympton:
-Missing
-idle too low & stall
-Required to step on gas pedal for rpm at >1500 to help from stalling
-while driving, needed to Keep >3000rpm from stalling
-engine restarts & runs again after 10-20mins stop
-checked & have spark at #1 plug
-cracked the fuel banjoe bolt at top of fuel injector rail...fuel comes out (so fuel has pressure)

Overall, it stalled/restart/drive & stall about 10 times within 2 days. Problem is consistent as I believe it happens once something get warm up & trip the lost of power & engine stalling. And engine starts & runs fine again everytime after cool down. The cat was checked last November & no plug was found.


I haven't checked:
-coil ignitor
-afm

What can cause the problem?

Thanks a ton, I live in this camper still so I need to get it running pretty soon... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> -chris

I've found a bandage solution to my power lost / stalling problem.

As i kept stalling as soon as i turn on my heater fan, i know it must be a massive current draw problem that prevents the spark plugs from sparking or fuel pump from properly pressurizing the fuel system.

Since the plugs/wires/cap/rotor are all new, I jumped Fp+ & B to manually turn on the fuel pump w/ a paperclip. I then turn on the engine followed by the heater fan, it kept running!!!

I went for a short little test ride up a steep hill w/ the fan on, everything worked like a charm.

I don't know exactly what is causing the problem yet, but i suspect it has to do w/ the Circuit Opening relay on the passenger right wall or something along that circuit.

Fyi, while it runs w/ the paperclip at Fp+ & B, as soon as i take it off during engine operation, the engine will stall. Any idea?

Thanks. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Fuel pump test jumper either bypasses or turns on the CO relay that supplies power to the fuel pump:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#FuelPump

Normally the AFM keeps the CO relay on when the engine is running, make sure that is working:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

I'm trying to trace the power source of the STA port of the Circuit Opening Relay harness. The diagram (http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/engine/38circuito.pdf) shows that power comes from the Ignition Switch ST1.

Should there be only power at STA when key is turned to "start"?

I'm wondering why I got a code 43 earlier stating: "Starter signal (STA) is not input to ECM
even once until engine reaches 800 rpm or
more when cranking." (http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/engine/26diagnosi.pdf)

The engine starts & runs fine with the Fp & B+ jumpered. Could it be related to shorted wires connecting from the starter?

Problem solved!!!

Went to junkyard & got another Circuit Opening Relay. Plugged it in & everything work fine again!!! It must have been my corroded old C/O Relay causing problems. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Thanks. Good info/solution for wacky problem. Do you suppose that the fan was drawing down the voltage just enough that there was enough power to 'break through' the crappy contacts in the relay?